the daily paleo

short ribs braised in ancho chile sauce

We were having such a mild winter, there for a minute, that I worried I wouldn’t feel like making this dish, which entered my all-time favorites file the very first time I made it. The slow braise of short ribs in chiles and coffee creates a very complex comfort-food classic whose heat and spice is easily adjusted up or down based on your preference.

The friend who initially gifted me with this recipe generously included her mother’s useful notes, and I’ve added my own. So please keep in mind that:

1. The dish is about 100 times better the second day. Make it ahead.

2. You can use boneless or bone-in short ribs. I prefer bone-in, but the boneless version is also very good.

3. Unless you have cooked frequently with dried chiles and understand their relative heat/spice, don’t substitute other chiles for the anchos.

4. The worst thing that can happen to the ribs is for them to dry out in the oven. To prevent that, I usually add more of the chile soaking liquid than the recipe calls for, and I seal the lid of the pot with tin foil before putting the lid on, for an even tighter seal.

5. Check the pot after it’s been in the oven for two hours; if the liquid is cooking down and exposing too much of the meat, add more.

For accompaniments, consider:

• smashed sweet potatoes
• sweet potatoes sauteed in duck fat
• not-so-paleo option: polenta

This recipe is adapted from a 2003 Gourmet recipe at Epicurious.com.

Ingredients
4 dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, and ribs discarded
2 cups boiling-hot water
1 medium onion, quartered
3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped canned chipotle chiles in adobo plus 2 teaspoons adobo sauce
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon salt
6 lb beef short ribs
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable olive (not extra virgin) oil
1/2 cup brewed coffee

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350F.

2. Soak ancho chiles in boiling-hot water until softened, about 20 minutes, then drain in a colander set over a bowl. Taste soaking liquid: It will be a little bitter, but if unpleasantly so, discard it; otherwise, reserve for braising. Transfer ancho chiles to a blender and purée with onion, garlic, chipotles with sauce, maple syrup, lime juice, and 1 teaspoon salt.

3. Pat ribs dry and sprinkle with pepper and remaining 2 teaspoons salt. Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown ribs in 3 batches, turning occasionally, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer as browned to a roasting pan just large enough to hold ribs in 1 layer.

4. Carefully add chile puree to fat remaining in skillet (it will spatter and steam) and cook over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, 5 minutes. Add reserved chile soaking liquid (or 1 1/2 cups water) and coffee and bring to a boil, then pour over ribs (liquid should reach about halfway up sides of meat).

5. Cover roasting pan tightly with foil and braise ribs until very tender, 3 to 3 1/2 hours.

6. Allow to cool, then refrigerate overnight. The fat will solidify, and turn bright orange from the chiles, like this:

7. Use a large spoon to crack through the solidified orange fat and lift it all out of the pot, leaving the meat juices below in the pot.

8. Reheat the ribs in the pot, covered, taking care not to let the liquid cook down.

9. Serve the ribs together with the juices.

Thanks to Dan Reshef for the beautiful photos (the second and fourth shots) from the rest day dinner. The crappy photos (first and third) are mine.