Fort Reno Provisions, a new BBQ restaurant,  opened today in the old Mama Rosa space on Union Street, around the corner from Fourth Avenue. It promises well-sourced BBQ with the kind of attention to detail Slopers have come to expect from its principles, Jacques Gautier of Palo Santo and chef Lia Forman (Colicchio and Sons.)

Palo Santo is a perennial favorite of the CFSBK paleo crowd. I’m not a huge fan of the spot, for a variety of reasons, but any new BBQ joint in the nabe is worth checking out. Hey, it’s a dirty job, right?

I’ll cut to the chase here. It was opening night and everything can be expected to improve and evolve, but here are the headlines:

1. The space is gorgeous, all inlaid wood and muted, old-timey lighting. There are fewer than 20 seats, the vintage soundtrack was extremely wonderful, and you order your food by the pound at the register - no annoying wait staff.

2. No surprises on the menu: brisket, pulled pork, and country ribs. The kitchen is tiny but includes a smoker, and the scent pervades everything on the menu. Sides included collards, mac+cheese, green beans, biscuits, baked beans, and cole slaw.

3. I ordered all the meats on the menu tonight.

• pulled pork: unremarkable, I wouldn’t order it again. A shame, as this is usually a highlight at Fette Sau. I expected more from the Heritage pork they are using.
• brisket: very promising. Great depth of flavor, excellent complex spice and a fine crust. Unfortunately, it wasn’t as tender as I’d like - we all felt the texture was the only flaw. 
• ribs: the standout for me tonight. They are huge and blackened, with succulent meat soft as can be. The sauce is perfect - a little sweet, lots of deeply caramelized tomato flavor, just the right amount of salt.

4. The sauce served on the side is quite nice, and the collards were very, very fine. My companions very much enjoyed the green bean side as well, but I think I noted it comes laced with garbanzos, so paleo buyers beware.

It’s worth pointing out that, just a few months ago, the only paleo-friendly post-gym options were Sheep Station and Oaxaca. Night after night we trooped to one or the other; I myself was never satisfied with the former and inevitably tired of the same two or three options at the latter. Plus, neither were strictly paleo, with vegetable oil and lots of other no-nos hard to avoid.  With the establishment first of Bare Burger and now of Fort Reno - and the addition of Dinosaur on the horizon - our options are, happily, expanded.

It was too dark inside for photos, but we’ll be back for more tastes of the BBQ soon. If you drop by, I’d love to hear your thoughts, too.